Costa Rica

The Journey That Did Not Happen

Our family's travel story began, in many ways, with a trip that never happened.

In 2019, before we planned to start a family, we booked the biggest adventure of our lives: a trip to Kenya and the Seychelles for summer 2020. We imagined it as one final extraordinary journey before entering a new season—safaris in Kenya, quiet days by the beach in the Seychelles and time together before becoming parents.

Then the world changed.

The pandemic forced us to cancel the trip, and the future we had carefully planned suddenly looked very different. We never made it to Kenya or the Seychelles. Instead, we moved into a season of uncertainty, stayed close to home and eventually welcomed our first son, Preston, during the pandemic.

By the time we began thinking seriously about international travel again, we were no longer planning for two adults.

We had a toddler.

Travel now came with questions we had never needed to consider before. Could we manage an international flight with a 17-month-old? Would driving in another country feel overwhelming with a toddler in the backseat? How would we handle naps, meals and unfamiliar surroundings? What would happen when something inevitably did not go according to plan?

In 2023, we chose Costa Rica. We spent hours researching every part of the trip—where to stay, how to get around, what we could realistically experience with Preston and how to build an itinerary that still felt adventurous without asking too much of our family.

The planning made us excited. Booking it made us nervous. Once the flights, accommodations and rental car were confirmed, the fears became louder. We came surprisingly close to canceling—not because we no longer wanted to go, but because the trip forced us to confront a question we could not answer from home.

Thank goodness we went.

Costa Rica became one of the most important trips our family has taken. Its lush landscapes, Pacific beaches, wildlife, waterfalls and fresh, flavorful food were everything we hoped they would be. The kindness of the people we met made an unfamiliar place feel welcoming. But what Costa Rica gave us went far beyond the destination itself.

It gave us confidence. Confidence to travel internationally with a young child. Confidence to navigate unfamiliar roads. Confidence to adapt when a day did not unfold exactly as planned. Confidence to understand that becoming parents had changed the way we traveled, but it did not have to end our desire to explore.

The trip to Kenya and the Seychelles was supposed to be our last great adventure before starting a family. Costa Rica taught us that the greatest adventures did not have to come before children.

They could begin with them.

Our Route

Flying into San José and departing from Liberia allowed us to move through the country without retracing the entire route. It also gave us the opportunity to experience two distinct parts of Costa Rica: the lush southern Pacific region and the drier, beach-centered landscapes of Guanacaste.

It was an ambitious itinerary for our first international trip with a young child, but it showed us how much was possible when we planned thoughtfully and remained flexible.

Before We Left

Why We Chose Costa Rica

We wanted our first major international family trip to feel fulfilling and memorable. Costa Rica offered the combination we were drawn to most: extraordinary natural beauty, wildlife, beaches, waterfalls, fresh food and the opportunity to experience a culture different from our own.

It also felt like a destination where we could create a trip around our family rather than following one prescribed way of traveling. We could drive, settle into a home base, spend time outdoors and decide how much—or how little—we wanted to do each day. That flexibility mattered with a 17-month-old.

We were not looking to chase adventure for the sake of saying we had done it. We wanted to spend meaningful time together, experience somewhere new and return home feeling that the effort had been worthwhile. Costa Rica gave us all of that.

What Made Us Nervous

Before the trip, our concerns were less about Costa Rica itself and more about whether we were ready. We worried about the flights, long car rides, naps, food and how Preston would respond to unfamiliar surroundings. We also questioned whether our road-trip itinerary was too ambitious for a first attempt.

Those concerns did not disappear when we arrived, but discomfort was not evidence that we had made the wrong decision. It was simply part of learning how to travel together.

Arriving in Costa Rica

Our first day in Costa Rica was not the reassuring beginning we had hoped for.

We connected through Houston, where our flight was delayed by about 90 minutes. By the time we finally landed in Costa Rica, we were already behind schedule. Then we sat on the tarmac. After that came a long wait in the customs and immigration line, followed by another line at the rental-car counter.

When it was finally our turn, the rental company could not find the car seat we had reserved for Preston. We waited while they searched, watching time continue to pass. Before the trip, nearly everything we had read warned against driving in Costa Rica after dark. As the daylight faded, it became clear that we were going to have to do exactly that. It was also pouring rain.

We tried to remain positive, but the situation was stressful. We were tired, responsible for a 17-month-old and about to begin our first drive in a country we had never visited under the very conditions we had been advised to avoid. Then, almost immediately after pulling out in the rental car, I took a wrong turn. I drove down an unfamiliar road without knowing where we were going and eventually pulled into a parking lot so we could stop and figure it out. We had barely begun the trip, and we were already lost.

In that moment, every fear we had carried with us felt justified. The flight had been delayed. Our arrival had taken hours longer than expected. The car-seat issue had added another layer of stress. It was dark, we were disoriented and our first attempt at navigating had gone wrong almost immediately.

But we stopped. We regrouped. We found our route and continued.

Looking back, that first night became an early lesson in the kind of travel this trip would require from us. We could not control every delay, solve every problem in advance or guarantee that we would always know where we were going. We could only pause, adjust and keep moving.

One of the lessons we began learning in Costa Rica—and have carried into every trip since—is not to judge a destination, or ourselves, by the travel day. Sometimes the beginning is simply the hardest part. Give yourselves time to arrive.

The Southern Pacific Coast

Making Ojochal Our Home Base

We spent five nights in Ojochal, using it as our home base for exploring Costa Rica's southern Pacific coast.

Getting to the property was an experience of its own. We left the main road, drove through farmland and followed a winding route into the hills before beginning a steep climb that made us very grateful to have a four-wheel-drive vehicle. The final incline went almost straight up. It felt a little like an adventure ride every time we came and went. At the top, the road opened into a small space carved into the jungle.

The property was beautiful, with an exceptional view and the kind of setting that immediately made the complicated arrival feel worthwhile. It felt private and removed from everything, surrounded by the landscape we had traveled to Costa Rica hoping to experience.

The outdoor pool was enormous—much bigger than our small family needed—but it became a wonderful place to settle in, spend time together and slow down between outings. We did not have to leave the villa every time we wanted the day to feel special. Sometimes being able to swim, enjoy the view and stay in one place was exactly what we needed.

The kitchen was equally impressive. Quite frankly, it was better than the kitchen we have at home—and we have a nice kitchen. We stopped for groceries on the drive down from the airport and stocked the refrigerator with essentials, snacks and familiar foods for Preston. Being able to prepare breakfast at the villa gave each morning a reliable beginning.

The villa also had laundry facilities, which allowed us to pack more lightly and wash clothes throughout the trip. With a young child, access to a washer and dryer was not a glamorous feature, but it was one of the most useful. More than any single feature, the space gave us flexibility. After a day of driving and exploring, we could prepare food, wash clothes, swim and simply be together without immediately planning the next outing.

There were also a few practical surprises. At the property, we were instructed not to flush toilet paper and instead place it in a waste bin. It was one of those small but memorable reminders that even the most ordinary routines can work differently when you travel somewhere new.

Manuel Antonio

We hired a guide for our visit to Manuel Antonio National Park, and we believe it was essential to the experience. The park was busy, and there were certainly enough people moving through the trails that we probably could have followed along and figured out the route ourselves. But having someone lead us through the park allowed us to focus less on navigation and more on what was happening around us.

Our guide helped us move through a particularly active section of monkeys and pointed out wildlife we almost certainly would have missed on our own. Most notably, the guide spotted sloths high in the trees and helped us capture remarkably clear images of them. Without that trained eye—and the proper equipment—we might have walked directly past them.

One of the most memorable moments came when a monkey suddenly leapt across the path directly in front of us. Nearby, another monkey carried a baby on its back. Seeing them move so naturally through the trees and across the trail made the park feel alive in a way that photographs cannot fully communicate.

We also had time to visit both beaches inside the park. Each one was beautiful. We did not swim, but we walked along the sand, took in the views and allowed ourselves time to enjoy the setting without rushing. With older children, we would consider building in enough time for a swim.

Playa Ventanas

Playa Ventanas was one of the best parts of our trip—possibly the best.

There is something difficult to explain about seeing the shoreline meet the jungle. The trees appear to reach toward the sand, while the beach opens directly into the Pacific. Seeing those two landscapes collide was spectacular. It is the kind of place that photographs can introduce, but they cannot fully capture. You have to stand there and experience the scale, the sound of the water and the feeling of being surrounded by both ocean and jungle at once.

We arrived early and spent most of the morning there. Very few people were on the beach when we arrived, and it remained relatively quiet throughout the several hours we stayed. We did not spend much time swimming. Instead, we walked along the beach, chased the waves and enjoyed a slower morning together. Preston could explore, and we could take in the scenery without following a schedule.

That unhurried time became one of the most meaningful parts of the trip. Not every memorable travel experience has to involve an organized activity, reservation or full itinerary. Sometimes the experience is simply arriving early, finding a beautiful place and allowing the family to stay until everyone feels ready to leave.

Nauyaca

We visited Nauyaca Waterfalls with a guide, and the additional expense was completely worthwhile for our family. We met the guide at a parking area that had been identified in advance. From there, we were driven from the lot toward the waterfalls rather than walking the entire distance.

It was extremely hot that day, and the ride made the experience possible for us. We would not have been able to comfortably complete the full walk with Preston in those conditions. Along the route, we saw several people who had initially chosen to walk but later paid to be picked up by one of the trucks. The length of the route and the intensity of the heat were easy to underestimate.

Because we did not use our energy hiking to the site, we arrived at the waterfalls feeling fresh and ready to explore. There are two waterfall areas, each offering a slightly different experience. The lower waterfall was especially good for swimming.

Kyle does not swim much, so he remained on the rocks with Preston while I went into the water. I swam out toward the waterfall and spent a few moments directly beneath it. It was unlike anything I had done on a previous trip. Swimming beneath the falling water, surrounded by the landscape and knowing how far we had traveled to reach that moment made it feel especially significant. It was adventurous without feeling performative—something I chose to do because I wanted to experience it fully, not simply because it was on an itinerary.

Uvita

We really liked Uvita. Although we loved staying in Ojochal, Uvita felt a little more central to several of the places we wanted to visit, and if we returned to Costa Rica's southern Pacific coast, we would strongly consider making it our home base. It had much of the same lush beauty and appeal that drew us to Ojochal—slightly larger and offering a little more convenience, but still relaxed, green and deeply connected to the surrounding landscape.

During our visit, we went to the beach at Marino Ballena National Park to see the famous Whale's Tail formation. To walk toward the Whale's Tail, timing matters. We visited during low tide, when the receding water reveals the long stretch of sand leading out toward the formation.

It was extremely hot that day. Although there were palm trees and some natural shade closer to the edge of the beach, there were very few amenities once we began walking out. During low tide, much of the route is exposed directly to the sun. The walk felt longer and hotter than it initially appeared, particularly with a young child.

The most spectacular view was not looking out toward the Whale's Tail. It came when we turned around.

Behind us, the shoreline opened toward the mountains, which rose beneath layers of dense green jungle. The combination of the wide beach, the palm trees and the mountains in the distance was extraordinary. It was one of those views that reminded us how dramatically Costa Rica's landscapes come together. The ocean does not feel separate from the jungle or the mountains. They all seem to meet in the same frame.

Playa Hermosa

One of the best decisions we made during this part of the trip was hiring a professional photographer for a family session at Playa Hermosa. We booked with La Vida in Life Photography and came away with something more meaningful than an ordinary souvenir: photographs of our entire family together during this particular season of our lives.

When you travel with a partner or as a family, someone is usually behind the camera. You return home with beautiful photographs of the destination and individual family members, but far fewer images that prove everyone was there together. A professional session gave us images we simply could not have created on our own.

Those photographs became some of the best things we brought home from Costa Rica. They captured Preston at 17 months old, the three of us at the beginning of our family-travel story and a version of our family that would never exist in quite the same way again. The experience mattered enough that it became a tradition. We have since booked family photographs in other destinations because we now understand how valuable it is to document not only where we went, but who we were when we went there.

Guanacaste

Staying in Junquillal

For the second portion of the trip, we traveled north to Junquillal, where we stayed for three nights. Waze estimated that the drive would take roughly five to five and a half hours. In reality, it took us closer to seven. Costa Rica may look small on a map, but traveling across the country can take much longer than the distance suggests. Build extra time into any major driving day.

The drive itself was beautiful. As we moved north, the landscape changed dramatically. The dense rainforest and jungle scenery of the southern Pacific coast gradually gave way to Guanacaste's tropical dry forest, open land and beautiful stretches of farmland. The region was noticeably drier and less intensely lush, but it was green and beautiful in its own way.

Junquillal was a very small, secluded community, similar to Ojochal in its quiet pace. We checked into a modern Airbnb villa inside the Tierra Pacífica community, where guests passed through a security desk before entering. The extra layer of security made us feel safe and settled from the beginning. The villa was stunning—modern, peaceful and surrounded by forest, with a private pool and a backyard area. From the upper decks outside both bedrooms, we could watch howler monkeys moving through the trees.

One of our favorite parts of staying there was the evening ritual. Local residents would make their way down to the beach each night to watch the sunset, and we followed their lead. We walked or drove down, gathered along the shoreline and watched the day end together. Knowing this was not an activity arranged for visitors, but simply part of how people who lived there ended their day, made the experience even more special.

Las Catalinas

Las Catalinas had intrigued me from the moment I saw it during my research. It was located in Costa Rica, but the images felt more Mediterranean or European than Costa Rican. At the time, I hoped we would one day travel to Europe, so we decided to visit and experience this very different place for ourselves.

It did feel completely distinct from the rest of the country. Visitors parked outside the development and walked into a car-free village. That made it especially comfortable with a little one because Preston could get down, walk and run without us constantly worrying about traffic. There was a splash pad, an outdoor gym, a massive tree swing, multiple restaurants, hotels, a beach club and a pool. The setting was polished, thoughtfully designed and beautiful.

Preston especially loved the splash pad and the freedom to move around the village. For us, it was an easy day trip that combined an interesting setting with space for him to simply play. Las Catalinas may appeal to travelers who enjoy polished amenities or want a more familiar-feeling introduction to international travel. Its appeal is that it is intentionally different from the rest of the country. We would happily return to see how the community has grown since our visit.

Sámara

Sámara was our final full-day experience and immediately became a place we could imagine using as a future home base. It was busier than Junquillal without feeling overwhelming, and it combined a relaxed beach-town atmosphere with a playground, restaurants, beach clubs, bathrooms and places to take a break.

It was an easygoing way to end the trip and remains on our short list for a return visit. We would recommend it to families who want a relaxed beach-town atmosphere with useful amenities nearby, rather than either complete seclusion or the intensity of a major tourist center.

Tamarindo

Tamarindo was probably the town we had heard the most about before the trip. As we drove through, it looked lively and full of activity, with plenty of people and many places to eat. Under different circumstances, that energy may have felt exciting.

On this trip, however, we felt overwhelmed by the crowds. We had become accustomed to the slow, quiet seclusion of Ojochal and Junquillal, and Tamarindo felt like a sudden shift. Rather than forcing ourselves to stop because it was a well-known destination, we listened to what we wanted in that moment and continued through, taking in the town from our car windows. Passing through was not a judgment on the town; it was an example of allowing the trip to change when the original plan no longer matched the experience we wanted.

Traveling with a 17-Month-Old

Traveling with Preston did not make Costa Rica impossible. It made the trip different.

Our days required more flexibility. We considered heat, car time, meals and how much stimulation was realistic. We could not always move at the pace we might have chosen before becoming parents, but the slower rhythm often helped us notice more. We stopped when Preston needed to stop, found joy in his reactions and learned that a young child does not need every activity to be designed around him. He needed enough rest, food, familiarity and security to share the experience with us.

What Helped Our Family

• The Osprey Poco LiteThe one piece of gear that mattered everywhere. It made trails, beaches and uneven terrain much easier because wherever we went, Preston went. It has become our number-one family travel essential.
• Flexible NapsWe did not follow a complicated nap strategy. Preston napped well in his car seat, so some driving time naturally became nap time. On other days, we returned to the villa midday and let him sleep while we enjoyed the pool.
• Snacks & Fewer Food RulesWe carried plenty of snacks and relaxed our usual expectations about what, when and exactly how he ate. Our priority was simple: keep him fed, happy and full.
• Bug Spray & Familiar ItemsBug spray was essential. We also brought familiar comforts, including his favorite stuffed animal, to make sleeping and settling into new spaces easier.
• Knowing What We Did Not NeedWe packed a sound machine and baby monitor but barely used either. Both were eventually removed from our regular packing list.

Driving in Costa Rica

Driving was one of our greatest sources of anxiety before the trip, but once we adjusted, most of it felt manageable. Our Airbnb host recommended Waze rather than Google Maps or Apple Maps, so that is what we used throughout the trip. The roads required confidence, particularly in the mountains, but we generally felt comfortable once we became accustomed to the terrain. The more significant challenge was darkness. Night fell quickly, and many roads became extremely dark. We started our days earlier so that our outings and return trips could happen during daylight.

We also learned not to treat an estimated driving time as a promise. The move from Ojochal to Junquillal was shown as roughly five to five and a half hours in Waze but took closer to seven. In Costa Rica, a route can take much longer than its distance on a map suggests, especially when roads, stops and a toddler are added to the calculation. We would rent a car again, but we would continue treating major relocation days as travel days rather than opportunities to add a full schedule of activities.

What We Ate

Costa Rica's food was one of the most consistently enjoyable parts of the trip. It was fresh, flavorful and satisfying without needing to feel complicated. Kyle especially loved gallo pinto. He ordered it multiple times in different restaurants and different parts of the country, and every version was good.

Restaurante Lochito's

Our favorite restaurant of the entire trip was Restaurante Lochito's in Playa Junquillal. It was a small, family-owned restaurant where we ate outside on a patio connected to a local home. The setting was simple, the staff was fantastic and the food was fresh and memorable.

I ordered a chicken skewer with vegetables—nothing elaborate, but exceptionally well prepared. The drinks were excellent as well. We enjoyed the meal so much that we returned a second time during our three-night stay. We still talk about it today. We did not need a reservation, and a high chair was available for Preston. If you are staying in or near Junquillal, Restaurante Lochito's is one of the places we would consider a must.

Safety, Surprises & the Honest Part

Did We Feel Safe?

Yes. We felt safe during our trip.

As we would anywhere, we remained aware of our surroundings, protected our belongings and used ordinary travel precautions. But fear of being somewhere unfamiliar did not match the reality of our experience. The people we encountered were kind, patient and welcoming.

One interaction at a restaurant has stayed with us in particular. A local noticed that we had a young child and came over to tell us that monkeys were moving through a nearby tree. He also spotted a sloth that we never would have noticed on our own and made a point of showing both animals to Preston. It was a small gesture, but it reflected the warmth we experienced throughout the trip: someone saw something special and wanted our child to experience it too.

Feeling safe did not mean we never felt uncertain. There is a difference between danger and the discomfort of not immediately knowing how everything works. Much of what made us nervous before the trip belonged to that second category. Once we stopped treating unfamiliarity as a warning sign, we were able to experience Costa Rica more openly.

What Surprised Us

• How Manageable It BecameThe anticipation was more intimidating than the experience itself. We did not know every answer before leaving, but we learned as we went.
• The Variety Within One CountryThe southern Pacific coast and Guanacaste offered different landscapes, atmospheres and rhythms. Moving between them made the trip feel like more than one type of vacation.
• The Warmth of the PeopleThe kindness we encountered helped us feel welcome even when we were still finding our footing.
• How Much Preston Could EnjoyAt 17 months old, he will not remember the itinerary. But he could still experience the water, wildlife, movement, sounds, food and attention of being somewhere new with us. The value of traveling with a young child is not limited to what the child will consciously remember—the experience shapes the family in the present.

The Honest Part

Costa Rica was meaningful, but it was not effortless. Our arrival day was stressful, the first drive was harder than expected and there were moments when we questioned whether we had taken on too much.

Looking back, we would protect the experience by giving ourselves more time. We might break up the first drive and consider Uvita or Quepos when reducing daily car time is the priority. Still, we would not want to lose the seclusion and beauty that made Ojochal so memorable.

A stressful beginning did not define the trip.

It simply taught us that family travel does not require perfection. It requires flexibility, patience and a willingness to reset after a difficult hour—or a difficult day.

What We Would Repeat & Change

What We Would Do Again

• Fly into San José and depart through Liberia rather than retracing the route.
• Rent a four-wheel-drive vehicle and use two home bases.
• Hire guides at Manuel Antonio and Nauyaca and pay for the vehicle transfer to the waterfalls.
• Spend an unhurried morning at Playa Ventanas.
• Eat at Restaurante Lochito's—more than once, if possible.
• Book professional family photographs in the destination.
• Choose villas with a kitchen, laundry, a pool and room to spread out.

What We Would Change

• Make the trip longer if possible. Eight nights and nine days worked well, but two weeks would have allowed us to add La Fortuna.
• Break up the first drive from San José rather than pushing all the way to Ojochal after a long arrival day.
• Consider Uvita as a more central southern Pacific base when reducing car time is the priority, while recognizing that Ojochal's seclusion was part of what made our stay so special.
• Leave behind the baby monitor and sound machine, and continue refining the list of toddler items that truly earn space in the luggage.

Who Is This Trip For?

Our route may be a good fit for families who:

• Want to experience more than one part of Costa Rica.
• Are comfortable driving and taking a road-trip approach.
• Prefer nature, wildlife, beaches and waterfalls to a heavily scheduled itinerary.
• Appreciate quieter home bases with day trips to more popular areas.
• Are willing to remain flexible when traveling with a young child.
• Understand that meaningful travel and easy travel are not always the same thing.

Families seeking a single resort stay with minimal transportation may prefer to build a different Costa Rica itinerary. There is no one correct version of the trip. The best route is the one that supports the experience your family is hoping to create.

Would We Return?

Absolutely.

Costa Rica gave us more than we could experience in one trip, and we would return with a different purpose rather than trying to recreate this itinerary exactly. The jungle affected us deeply. On a future trip, we would likely spend time near La Fortuna so that we could experience that lush landscape again, then pair it with a resort stay in Guanacaste.

After covering so much ground on our first visit, the next trip could be slower. We could spend more time in each place and create a new memory. Costa Rica feels like a place our family could return to during different seasons of life and experience differently each time.

What Costa Rica Left With Us

We went to Costa Rica hoping to give our family a fulfilling and memorable experience. We came home with evidence that we could do hard things together.

We could board the flight. We could drive the unfamiliar road. We could adjust when a day did not go as planned. We could help our child feel secure while showing him a world larger than the one he knew at home. That confidence became part of every trip that followed.

Since Costa Rica, we have continued exploring internationally as a family. The destinations have changed. Our family has grown. Each trip has brought new questions and new challenges. But Costa Rica will always be the trip that taught us not to let fear make the decision.

We almost stayed home.